Wednesday, 19 September 2007
Bone Marrow, St John
You never get offered bone marrow as a special at a restaurant. So someone like me feels an obligation to make the chefs night, by ordering the dish that they wished they could sell but doubt will. The thing is it is likely to be the dish of the night...The dish was described as Bone marrow, St John. Implying a reference to a similar dish served at St John Bar and Restaurant in London and the chef/owner, Fergus Hendersons commitment to 'nose to tail' dining, using the whole animal.
The marrow was rich and messy to eat, I guess it's one of those dishes that you shouldn't order unless you are happy to 'get amongst it'. Essentially two large roasted bones with charred bread and and a parsley, red onion and caper salad. Very Henderson...
So what does one drink with bone marrow on toast?
PDC was insistent on me having a glass of oloroso sherry. A medium dry, aromatic sherry that has a nutty, oxidative quality about it. The flavours together were intense but fitting, the fat of the marrow balanced against the sweet, caramel viciousness of the sherry. Delicious.
So if I wasn't in London last week, where in Melbourne could I've eaten this?
As an additional hint, this clafoutis was from the same evening. Perfectly cooked, still soft in the middle and unfortunately the stones removed...unlike the one I ate in Lyon. This was one of the most delectably, simply fantastic desserts I've eaten in a Melbourne restaurant in ...ages.
So which restaurant was I at?Jack
Labels: bone marrow, Dessert, Dining, food, Review
11 Comments:
Jack, I don't know what restaurant you were at, but I love bone marrow. Being Chinese, my whole family love eating bone marrow and we eat it all the time. I love to suck the marrow out, being careful not to burn my tongue.
A lot of Chinese restaurants use bone marrow where it is the star ingredient in a dish. Usually its cooked in a hotpot where a whole bowl of marrow is accompanied with vegetables.
Either the European (where I regret not ordering it) or The Homestead. Possibly the Point.
Posibly The Point when Henderson visited here & did aguest diiner with Ian Curly?
It was at the European a couple of weeks ago, where Ian Curly is Executive Chef.
Good guesses Ed and Gobbler.
A few months ago I also had the bone marrow dish at Rockpool Bar and Grill, where it is served with a slow poached egg, red wine sauce and brioche, VERY rich.
I can't help myself when it comes to the weird dishes you occasionally get offered. I have to try them.
Jack
You remind me of a friend of mine, she had duck liver brulee in Paris - it was not good, liver with a crisp sugar topping... she too must try the unusual. One of our party had blood sausages and they plopped on a plate and looked like turds (sorry for the language), the three pieces toppled in transit (not a good waiter!) and just looked WRONG, the most distasteful thing was the bill!!!!!!!! We must have been mad to pay those prices... Vida x
Hey Jack,
Looks fabulous- the Pier tasting room in Sydney has a very similar thing on their menu. Last time we went ( after an awful day at work when we maintained that the day had to be about something more than office politics) my fiance and I hoovered one down and nearly ordered another- we were squabbling like kids over the marrow. I cook Osso Bucco just so I can suck it all out.... messy, but so good.
Oh Tori, you have just reminded me about squabbling over the fat bits of marrow in the lamb short loin chops, with my sisters when I was young. I remember being the eldest and stealing it smetimes before Mum got the chops on the plate!
Vida, I had brulee foie gras in Spain at the most unusual little one Michelin star retaurant in Rioja. I loved it. I'll dig the photo out and post on it...
Sorry love blood sausage as well!
Jack
Clearly you had better chefs than we had in Paris... the blood sausage apparently tasted ok, it was just that they had stood them up in a row of three and a couple toppled and they just looked wrong... the foie gras did not taste good at all, it was too metalic, it's all in the execution I am sure... anyway we parted with 800 euros and thought the wine was superb... put it down to experience... Vida x x x
I was eating at the Euro with friends and saw the impressive bones pass by - after I'd ordered. I had to go back and have them but the night I was there they weren't on. I guess that means I'm up for a third visit. Soon.
The Dan Hunter dehydrated veggies and bone marrow was very good but so tiny compared to those clomping great bones.
I do agree Jack, that chefs wish that it (Bone Marrow) would be ordered. That’s not the only menu item either; Tongue, Sweetbreads, Cheek, etc are also some of the slow movers. Maybe that is just up here in Yeppoon QLD. We need to educate the public in dining. For me it's just a pleasure to offer something different. Great blog.
Hi John
Thanks for your thoughts.
Unfortunately, anything out of the ordinary is always a 'hard sell' in a restaurant. Coming from a front of house perspective in a past life, its exciting even for the waiter if a guest orders the 'cheffy favourite'. Its definately not a QLD thing, I'd bet its international. When i was in France a few months ago the waiters over there would even look impressed when i would order the brains or the offally thing.
Jack
Post a Comment
<< Home